Ganges Cruise Varanasi

"Our ganges cruise varanasi started in the dark, with mist sitting flat on the water and a single bell ringing somewhere above Assi Ghat. By the time the sun cleared the far bank the whole wall of ghats had turned orange and men were already waist-deep, pouring water over their shoulders. Take a scarf, the river air is noticeably colder than the lanes behind the steps."

"We asked for a rowed boat instead of an engine one and the difference was the silence. The Ganga nauka vihar carried us slowly past Manikarnika Ghat, where smoke from the pyres drifted flat across the surface and nobody on our boat said a word. Our boatman pointed out which ghats belonged to which old families without turning it into a lecture."

"Heavy overcast sky the morning we went, which made the stone of the ghats look stronger than hard sun would. The water was high and brown and marigold garlands kept slipping past the hull. Our guide spoke quietly and translated the chanting coming off the steps."

"Watching Ganga Aarti from the river beats standing in the crush on the steps, and that was the main reason we chose a ganges cruise varanasi tour. Boats rafted together in front of Dashashwamedh Ghat until it felt like a floating grandstand, brass lamps swinging in time with the drums. Expect a lot of elbows and camera phones around you once the lamps are lit."

"Did the Varanasi Ganges boat tour with my parents and it suited them, since there was no walking involved beyond the steps down to the water. From midstream you take in the tiered skyline of Varanasi landmarks all at once, kites above the rooftops and saris drying on the stone. The spire near Kashi Vishwanath Temple caught the last of the light just as we turned back."

"The water in front of the main ghats is loud and busy, but the ganges cruise varanasi also went upstream past half-empty steps where buffalo stood in the shallows. Our boatman lifted the oars and let us drift, and I could hear nothing but water slapping the hull. That quieter stretch ended up being my favourite part."

"Floating a clay diya from the edge of the boat at dusk is a small thing that stays with you, dozens of little flames spreading out in our wake. The far bank was almost black while the ghats glowed gold behind us. We shared the boat with six other people and it never felt tight."

"We sorted our ganges cruise varanasi tickets the evening before and the boatman found us at the top of the steps without any confusion. The stone is slippery and uneven down to the water, so go slowly and hold the rail where there is one. Boat was clean and had life jackets on board, which I had not expected."

"Thick December fog meant that for the first twenty minutes we only heard other boats passing. When it lifted, the Subah-e-Banaras chanting from Assi Ghat was drifting over the water and the sun came through pale orange. One of the calmest mornings I have had anywhere."

"Our boat held more people than we were told and two engine boats kept pulling alongside to sell trinkets, which broke the mood. The ghats themselves still looked remarkable in the low light and I would go again on a rowed boat. Ask how many are sharing before you step on."